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Waikaremoana

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Location: Te Urewera Ranges

Author: Teresa Davenport

Date: 3-6 Feb 2024





Day 1

Day 1 of my Lake Waikaremoana adventure unfolded with a drive from Auckland, aiming to split the daunting 6-hour journey. The road was my companion, but the long weekend traffic turned it into a challenging odyssey. Cars snaked ahead endlessly, testing my patience.

Cambridge offered a welcomed pause for dinner, a chance to stretch cramped legs and recharge for the road ahead. Little did I know that the weather had other plans. The heavens opened up, rain cascading so ferociously that it became a battle to stay on the road. The windshield wipers fought valiantly against the deluge, and each kilometre felt like a triumph.

Arriving at the Brett Road campsite, we faced a new challenge – setting up the tents in the downpour. The rain-soaked ground and relentless drops turned the tent into an island in a miniature lake. I sought refuge in the car. Surprisingly, the rhythmic rain on the car roof became a lullaby, and I drifted into a peaceful sleep.




Day 2 

Waking up, the realisation hit me- I had forgotten to pack my tramping pack. Faced with a pivotal choice between embarking on the ultra-light adventure of a lifetime or retracing my steps to Rotorua to purchase a bag, I weighed the options carefully. Opting for the latter, I decided to make do with my 26-litre bag, strategically cramming it with essentials and carefully selected luxury items.

The process of determining what constituted an absolute necessity and what fell under the category of indulgence became a thoughtful exercise. Sleeping bag, PLB, ibuprofen, food, and cooking equipment were unquestionably essential. The deliberation became more nuanced when it came to items like undies, and I found myself contemplating the significance of a raincoat. Despite the clear skies during our departure, the decision to include it proved fortuitous, as an unexpected downpour later confirmed.

Among the luxury items that made the cut were thermals, hut shoes, and a compact puffer jacket. Left behind were the full first aid kit and a spare set of hiking clothes. 





After some intense packing we set off, making a pit stop in Murupara at the bakery, then navigating a challenging gravel road, encountering wild horses and maraes along the way.

Upon reaching the trailhead, my navigational hiccup led us down the wrong path, but thankfully, Alex swiftly corrected our course. The wind was so extreme we thought we might blow off the ridge or a tree might fall on us. Ascending a formidable hill and traversing undulating terrain, we eventually reached Panekire Hut. Panekire Hut had a beautiful view at time, the wind was so extreme it blew us both clouds and clear! Welcomed by the warden and immersed in a powhiri that introduced us to Te Urewera's wonders, the experience took an unexpected turn as I bumped into an old workmate, Rebecca—an unexpected but heartwarming reunion. We ranted about our old up all night long as we had moved onto greener pastures.





Day 3

Hut marked the beginning of our second day. Rebecca, drawing from her prior experience on this route, cautioned us about its challenges, sharing tales of her past triumphs. Undeterred, we embraced the "yolo" spirit and commenced our descent from Panekire, bound for the hut where Rebecca's group intended to spend the night.

During our journey, we paused for morning tea, engaging in light banter with the vaping hut warden, injecting a touch of humor into the expedition. Continuing on, we joined forces with Rebecca's crew on the way to Korokoro Falls, a detour well worth the effort, allowing us to enjoy the scenic beauty without the burden of our packs.





Parting ways with them at Korokoro Falls, we proceeded to a leisurely lunch and a refreshing swim in the vibrant blue waters, basking in the warmth of the sun. However, the idyllic setting belied the toll of the 28 kilometers traversed on undulating terrain, challenging the claim of a flat route. We finally arrived at Maruiti Hut, a structure that, though showing signs of wear, offered a pleasing view. The accommodations were snug, resembling sardines packed for the night, prompting me to retire early, fatigued from the day's extensive trek.





Day 4

The day commenced with an early awakening at 4 am, courtesy of an intrusive alarm echoing through the confined quarters—a subtle reminder of the less glamorous aspects of communal living. Despite the initial disturbance, I managed to steal a few extra moments of sleep before fully rising to prepare for the day ahead. A minor concern loomed as we had initially planned to use the water taxi, but Alex's mum had a change of plans, prompting us to reconsider our mode of transportation.

The logistical challenge arose in notifying the water taxi service about our change of plans, given the absence of communication means. Nonetheless, the day unfolded with splendid weather, and we briskly covered an extra hour's worth of distance to reach the first hut. There, we encountered fellow hikers from the previous night, engaging in the seemingly audacious act of running with packs. Continuing through undulating terrain, we stumbled upon a sign indicating the water taxi location—a bit earlier than anticipated.





Perplexed by the discrepancy, we spent an hour deliberating with others about the disorganised state of the water taxi arrangements. Realising the lack of clarity and organisation, we decided to abandon the water taxi plan altogether, suspecting they might not even be aware of our reservation.

Opting to meet Alex's mom instead, we hurried to our rendezvous point and, thankfully, caught up with her despite a slight delay. Feeling spontaneous, Tasma and I embraced the "yolo" spirit, booking another hike to Sandy Bay Hut for the evening. Returning to our cars after Alex's mom dropped us off, we found ourselves at the starting point of yet another trail, this one following an in-and-out route.

Embarking on the trek, we marvelled at the crystal-clear waters, the most pristine I had ever seen. A refreshing swim by the lake's edge was followed by a leisurely walk to the hut. As the sun began to set, I prepared a simple noodle dish, basking in the tranquillity. However, our peaceful evening took a turn when a group of bogans disrupted the serenity who rowed in from fishing the lake attempting to start a fire in a designated fire ban area. Diplomatically, I intervened to address the situation. Despite this minor hiccup, the evening unfolded with a captivating sunset, rendering the experience memorable despite its uneven turns.





Day 5

Our final day unfolded with a serene morning, marked by a refreshing dip in the shallow waters beside the hut and a satisfying breakfast of oats. Eager to avoid a late return to Auckland, we swiftly undertook our cleanup duties and set out on the trail, which continued to impress with its well-maintained condition.





During our journey, we paused by the final stretch of the lakeside track, succumbing to the temptation of one last dip. To our surprise, we once again encountered the group of bogans, now proudly showcasing a trout they had caught and ingeniously using harakeke to carry it.

With a sense of urgency, we hastened downhill, reaching my car without incident. The apprehension caused by the earlier remarks of fellow hikers about the safety of parking in the area was quickly dispelled as we found my car safe and sound.

Navigating the gravel road, we made a brief lunch stop in Murupara before embarking on the drive home, fortunate to encounter minimal traffic. The journey concluded on a positive note, allowing us to reflect on the adventures of the past few days while enjoying a smooth and timely return to Auckland.


Te Urewera Ranges, you beauty!




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