Thunderbolt Range

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6 days ago
3 min read

Location: Kaimanawa Ranges

Date: 25th - 27th April 2025

Author: Bianca Manzano

Participants: Bianca, Ashwin, Matt, Nick

6AM is a reasonable time to meet at the clocktower, right? Well that’s just what a keen group of four did on the start of ANZAC weekend. We took the 4h drive down to Waikoko Campsite in the Kaimanawas for a three-day mish to tackle the unrouted Thunderbolt Range. Doing a last minute weather check, we decided to do the plan in reverse to avoid camping in the rain.

From Waikoko Campsite, we walked the 2km along the gravel road to Urchin trailhead. With a very full carpark, lots of daytrippers were seen that day, including their tail-wagging trail companions. Before we knew it, we were at the trig.

After some lunch, we set out for the trail down to Waipakihi Valley where we’d spend the night. After a total of three river crossings (RIP Matt’s lost slipper), we found a camp spot conveniently next to the Thunderbolt Track for the next day.

Sad attempts at getting a campfire going snuffled out our plans for s’mores, but a gas canister worked just as well. Never mind the butane taste.

The stars were in no lack of supply. It seemed that every time you looked up, more would appear. Even the Milky Way could be made out. Wishes were made upon shooting stars.

We woke the next morning to an overcast sky. We couldn’t even see the Thunderbolt Range. Visibility would be low. We decided to go for it, coming up with safety and contingency plans. After all, saying “I did the Thunderbolt” sounds a lot cooler than “I went to the Kaimanawas.”

Peak after peak after peak. And the views were incredible!! We could see so much! It was whole vistas of whiteness! Heaven must look like this.

After about 5h of no-man’s-land tramping, we came upon a solitary figure. The happy-go-lucky young chap was enquiring about a mysterious hut from the direction we came from. We told him we hadn’t heard of any such thing and that Topo didn’t show anything either. Poor guy unassumingly said, “Oh, I don’t have Topo, but I have AllTrails!” Wow, okay. Hope he packed a tent.

We were warned of a steep descent back into the valley, but it really wasn’t that bad. Emerging from the bush, the hut could be seen. And with it, billowing smoke promising a warm, dry night. After 8.5h, we made it.

We hung up our wet clothes and settled in for some dehydrated Shepherd’s Pie (compliments of le chef Ashwin) and hut chats with some hunters. Margot, a friendly German Shorthaired Pointer dog, stuck around for the pats. After playing cambio card games by red headlight (such a vibe), we went to bed at the scandalously late time of 9PM.

We were prepared for rain the next day, but the weather held out pretty well. Taking the easygoing Umukarikari Track back, we were able to finally indulge in the views. Soon, we were back into the bushline appreciating a lush and mossy, damp forest.

Emerging from the Umukarikari trailhead and walking the final 500m to Waikoko Campsite, we were glad to rip off our wet boots and socks. We cracked open some well-earnt Boss Coffees, threw our gear in the back, and set off for Auckland.