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Aotea Trip

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Location: Aotea, Great Barrier Island

Author: Teresa Davenport

Date: 28th March - 2nd April 2024



Day 1 

Woke up slightly hungover from a big night at Fred Again the night before. Then I had to rush to make sure I hadn’t forgotten anything and got out the door.


When I arrived at the airport I meet with George and we spun yarns and I ate subway. My last non tramping meal! When it was time for our plane I was very excited but nervous when I saw the tin can of a plane we were flying in. We were the first flight of the day, and I kept my eyes peeled for dolphins and whales but non seen sadly :(. We landed safely after some questionable turbulence.





After an extortionately priced bottle of gas was purchased, George gave me a lift to Haratonga Campsite where I just chilled for a couple of hours waiting for Daisy. George was working today but we had plans to meet tomorrow. I had a wonderful time at the beach, the sun was out, I had a boogie with my headphones. I rock hopped and I snorkelled looking at amazing yellow seaweed and lazied in the sun listening to podcasts. 


Then I looked at the time and realised it was time to get back to reality and meet Daisy. So I walked over to the agreed meeting spot and had a nap till she came. 


When Daisy arrived she went for a walk to the beach to understand the situation with how great it was. We then set off to go on our walk, and we walked to Aotea road. When we got there we decided to stick our thumb out to save some time, a dodgy looking Ute pulled over and told us to get on the back. We were on #barrierbaybeee. As we rode I realised I could smell a familiar smell coming from the cab. Uh oh, but we were committed so we just held on for dear life. Once again #barrierbaybee. Thankfully we made it unscathed. The dude was a legend and we started on the Windy Canyon track.


This was a beautiful track with lots of exposed rock. Tramping through cracks between the cliffs was especially spectacular. Daisy and I were particularly excited by the native plants. The weather was constantly changing so sometimes we were getting whipped by rain other times it was a gorgeously sunny. We arrived at the track intersection and summited the tallest peak of the island, Mt Hobson.


Mt Hobson was a trippy experience since the wind was intense the clouds were moving so fast, I felt like I could sit and watch the landscape change forever. The clouds shaded the sun out so much at one point, the sun looked like the moon.


We then powered on to the hut which was just a short walk away. When we arrived, we kicked our feet up, and had a chill one with kai, chats, and talking to our other peeps in the hut. We then went to bed excited for what tomorrow brought.





Day 2 


The morning started with a wake up from an alarm from a warm and comfortable sleep. We got up, had some breakfast and set off for our day to go and check out this waterfall and hot springs we’d planned to go to. 

The day was windy but the track was scenic as we headed down loads of stairs dreading the fact we’d have to come back up them to get back to the hut. We’d decided to stay our first two nights at Mt Heale Hut so we were exploring without our heavy bags. As we got to the intersection of Peach Tree track and the tramline track we took a left heading for the waterfall first. On our way we headed over some pretty vertical slippery tracks… we assumed since it was a tramline the track would be great but alas. The track was either clay or rocks on the most vertical parts and mixed with some scattered showers we had it became slow going. 





When we finally arrived at the waterfall, it was a disappointment initially. We had been walking for an hour for just a bit of a stream we thought at first. To our relief we spotted a DOC sign that said Waterfall 2 mins. We got to the viewing spot then parkoured a bit further down to get a better view. It was marvellous, so a swim was a must. We jumped in, manus were on and it was FREEZING. Although my body quickly acclimatised to the cold. We then went out and I did a reccy a bit further down the stream. Phone in my mouth I got some brilliant photos. As well as some cracks in my screen as some bite marks in my phone case from me clenching my teeth to the cold water. It was worth it when we got out and had our lunch, it was pretty cold but not as cold as the water. 





After lunch we set off determined to make it to the hot pools. Once again navigating the steep and slippery slopes, we got to a point where I got reception when I got a message from George. He had found other hot pools on google maps closer to our current location. We once again decided to do a reccy to find these mysterious “peach tree hot springs”. Alas after some treacherous cliffs traversed by me we realised there hot springs were a hoax put on by someone trying to waste our time! Just a freezing cold stream was to be found.

We kept on the track where we walked a bit further down where Daisy said on her map said were other “Hot springs” so once again after another mish off track we were fooled. No hot springs in site, not even a cold river. We headed back out to the track and realised it was starting to get late so after the foolishness of trying to take a shortcut to get to the hot springs we had wasted so much time we weren’t going to make it back to the actual hot spring. Argh. 

So Daisy and I decided to turn back to the hut. 


After mountaining up many many stairs. We finally made it back to the hut. Daisy didn’t manage to book a space in the hut for the night as it was full, although we had hoped there might be a spare bed due to the windy weather. Alas we arrived at a full hut pumping so Daisy still had to top and tail with me! 


We caught up with George and chilled out. Enjoying dinner and the company from the other hut goers. We had an early night from an exhausting day excited for the days to come.





Day 3 

I woke up busting to use the toilet so I got out of bed trying not to step on Daisy. The sky was clear but the wind was cold! Although I enjoyed a beautiful view across to Te Hauturu Toi or Little Barrier Island. 


We enjoyed our breakfast blissfully as we weren’t in any rush due to the next hut only being a 2 hours walk away. 

After unbelievable amounts of faff from me George, Daisy and I set off the Kairaara Hut over the Southern Fork track. The breeze was cool and the sun was nice. It was a brilliant day to go tramping. We boosted over a few dodgy footbridges and enjoyed the beautiful blue ocean views. After a few stops, and a few laughs we finally arrived at the hut. A little more shabby than the flash Mt Heale Hut, although classic NZ backcountry hut vibes. 





We had a hot lunch cause we were at the lunch then we decided it was a brilliant afternoon to go to the beach. We split up due to the faff I was doing (enjoying a hot brew) so I insisted they leave without me so I wouldn’t hold them up and could just dawdle along. When we all went there we looked over the brilliant blue water. We all went for a swim at “Bush’s Beach” - original name. Then we lazied around in the sun for the afternoon. Some of us even caught a few z’s. 


After a spectacular afternoon in the sun we decided to head back as the sun was going down. We all waited patiently to get our chef on as the kitchen was busy. When it was our turn we enjoyed our meal with a side of Kawakawa tea.


After that we played a few rounds of hearts which we all had a turn at winning at. It was a throwback to my windows xp playing days with hearts and freecell. 


It was then time for bed, I was especially gassy this evening due to my curry and I remember letting a big one rip in the night and someone said “ew yuck.” Not sure if that actually happened.





Day 4


I woke up to say goodbye to George and use the toilet. Then I went back to bed to have a lie in as we were having another chill hut day.


After Daisy and I finally were awake we enjoyed our breakfast and more faff getting ready for the day. We then set off for our 20 km day walk. It was another cracking day. 


Blissfully breezy and blue sky seemed like another great day. As we made up forest road, it was a wide well maintained path (cause it was a road) that had beautiful scenery.  We turned off to “Kauri trees” a short path where we enjoyed the massive trees. A couple that thankfully my ancestors didn’t make it to, they were grand.





After grinding up the road we made it to our lunch spot. This was a bit of a rock scramble, we were glad it was dry. We enjoyed a delicious meal (mine was curry that I think was the culprit of giving me gas from the day before) and marvelled at the view.


When we finally decided to get our a into g, we headed down a slightly less maintained path, the Kiwiriki path. Many fallen trees and slashes through city grass later we made it to Kiwiriki bay. The side path to Kiwiriki bay was especially gnarly and gorse crazed. I enjoyed a nap and a swim. The swim led me to cut my feet on some oyster rocks #rip. Although all good as it wasn’t too bad.


We then walked back up the path and out back to the hut. This also wasn’t the best maintained path and we enjoyed this sign that says “Track Upgrades happening here”. This sign must have been there before the current government decided to slash EVERYTHING. 


Daisy and I enjoyed some plant ID too on this app I have. We had a quick stop into Bush’s Beach to marvel at the sunset, me to take a dump and for Daisy to make a sandcastle. I was intensely trying to let it rip as we walked to try and get all the farts out of my system. Hoping for a fartless night.


We then boosted out after realising how hungry we were, once again picking Kawakawa leaves on the way for our tea. 


After returning to the hut we whipped up some food, Daisy was so hungry she hurt her mouth trying to eat :(. After our delicious dinners we went on the hunt for some glow worms. We went out to the bridge to see if we could see any. We quickly gave up after enjoying the night sky and went back to bed.





Day 5


Daisy and I woke up blissfully late in the morning for another cruisy day. We enjoyed our breakfast, and this morning was another immensely faffable morning. 


My farting was less intense last night due to me letting it rip on the walk the day before but it did exist sadly. 


When we finally set off we decided to take the “closed route” as we heard from others that the reason it was closed was a bit lowkey. 


We set off through the beautiful Nikau and along quite a flat track at first, appreciating it. As one thing we learnt. Aotea does not do flat. 


We got to the reason the track was closed and it was absolutely fine. I’m glad we did walk over the new track back cause I’ve walked on many many open tracks dodgier than that.


We finally arrived at the first intersection and we decided to take a detour to “Coopers castle” excited to see what greets us at the other end. Alas after a 45 minute walk straight vertical up, it was just another view point. Stunning none the less but for real what the fuck is that kind of false advertising. I cut my legs up badly on that cutty grass for a viewing spot where we’d see later but better. I was #pissed about it. 





When we finally made it down, we decided it was time for lunch!! I decided to eat the rest of my pita bread and call it a day on that, it was getting so stale.


We then went on a 2 min detour to see the Kauri dam and far out that was more interesting that cooper's castle. There were lots of interesting exposed rock faces too after this point. I really enjoyed them.


We then set off back up to the top of Mt Hobson. And let me tell you.

STEPS STEPS STEPS.





I calculated we did over 4000 steps up that whole day. My glutes will be strong!

When we finally made it to the top of Mt Hobson, sadly the blue sky was gone. I blame coopers castle haha. The view was still banging though. We ran into a few other people we’d be sharing the hut with that night. Some of them are so nice to even share their Easter eggs!


Then we decided to rip the bandaid off and walk to the hut. We had been at the look out for about an hour and a half just lazing about procrastinating. When we finally arrived at the hut, I was pretty starved from my pita lunch.


We enjoyed some dinner and an amazing sunset. We had quite a social night talking to most in the hut.





Day 6


I had a bit of a restless night due to a bit of anxiety about missing my flight the next day! I woke up to Daisy’s alarms she was leaving before me so I knew I had another hour to doze.

When I woke up I really tried to be quiet since I was waking up at 6am but me and quiet don’t really mix.


When I finally got up and out and ready it was 7am. I walked down the hill enjoying the sunrise, as the sky looked beautiful shades of pink and red I felt so lucky. I saw a morepork too!


I finally reached the hot springs around 8:30am. I had a nice soak in them attempting to wash the 6 days of tramping off. The hot springs were perfect. They had levels of hotness and depth, I felt very lucky to go that early in the morning as they were undisturbed. I saw some of my counterparts from the huts boost me on the track, as I soaked in the hot pools. I assumed they were in a rush as they just said a quick hello and boosted past.





Unsuccessful in the mission of washing the tramp off but successful in maximum relaxation. I mished on to the road for a bit of road walking to end my trip and hopefully a bit of hitchhiking!


The road walk was pleasant and surprisingly short as I could boost it with no obstacles. Sadly I couldn’t manage to hitchhike as no one came along the road! All good though since it was much shorter than expected.


I finished the hike with an ice cream, a nice sandwich (sadly the burger shop was closed, errrr apparently the owner forgot to take the mince out lmao) then a bounce on communal Aotea trampoline. I had a yarn with this lady as her kid jumped on the trampoline with me. I asked her if she knew my cousin, and she did. Then she proceeded to talk about how much of a babe my cousin was #barrierbaybeee.





I then went to the beach for my final swim on the barrier. On my way to the beach I fell into this ditch that had black sludge at the bottom. I assume it’s kerosene from the runway, again wtf. #barrierbaybeee. #breachoftherma


When I actually made it to the beach I had a really nice swim and washed the black sludge off. It was quite a blissful way to finish off the trip.

I made my way back to the airport and had another slightly harrowing flight home with turbulence. 

Thanks for coming, everyone. It was fun!



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